How do you nail roofing shingles, and which nails do you use?
Short answer. Drive galvanized roofing nails, usually 1 1/4 inch, straight and flush through the shingle's marked nailing strip, using four nails per shingle or six where the manufacturer or high wind rules require it. Nails should not be overdriven, underdriven, crooked or placed above the strip, because each of those lets shingles slide or blow off.
Which nails
Use roofing nails made of galvanized steel, stainless, aluminum or copper, with at least a 12 gauge shank and a 3/8 inch head, long enough to go 3/4 inch into the deck or through it. That is the IRC minimum, and the wrapper may require more.
Where they go
- Architectural shingles: in the marked nailing zone, where the two layers overlap, so the nail catches both layers and the top edge of the course below. Spread nails across the shingle as the wrapper diagrams, usually one near each end.
- 3-tab shingles: just above the tab cutouts, about 1 inch in from each end and one in line with each cutout.
- Six-nail pattern: adds nails between the standard positions for high wind areas or steep slopes.
How they should look
- Flush: the head sits tight on the shingle surface without cutting into it.
- Not overdriven: a head sunk into the mat can pull through in wind.
- Not underdriven: a raised head keeps the shingle above from sealing and can punch through it.
- Straight: an angled nail leaves part of the head raised and part cutting in.
Nail gun tips
Set the depth on a test shingle and recheck as the day warms up. On a Georgia summer afternoon, shingles soften and a gun that drove flush at 8 a.m. may overdrive by 2 p.m., so pressure and depth need adjusting through the day.
See wind damage to roofs in Georgia and architectural vs 3-tab shingles.