How do you install ice and water shield on a roof?
Short answer. On a clean, dry deck, install the eave drip edge, snap a chalk line, then unroll the membrane along the eave, peel the release liner and press it down, working out wrinkles as you go. Overlap later rows and roll ends by the printed amounts, run underlayment over it shingle-fashion, and cover it with roofing within the exposure limit.
Before you start
- Check the product's application temperature, often a minimum in the 40s. A cold or damp deck will not bond.
- Sweep the deck clean of dust, granules and sawdust, and set any raised nails.
- Install eave drip edge first so the membrane can lap over its flange.
- Wear soft-soled shoes and fall protection. Film-surfaced membranes can be slick.
Laying the first row at the eave
- Snap a chalk line to guide the upper edge so the row runs straight.
- Cut the roll into lengths you can handle, often 10 to 20 feet, especially on steeper roofs.
- Position the sheet with the liner still on, aligned to the edge and chalk line.
- If the liner is split, fold back one half, peel it, and press that half down. Then peel and press the other half.
- Smooth from the center outward to push out air. Fix any wrinkle by lifting and resetting while the adhesive is fresh.
- Roll the surface and laps firmly with a hand roller.
Next rows and other areas
- Lap each higher row over the one below by the printed side lap, and lap ends about 6 inches.
- Install valley membrane next, centered and lapped over the eave rows.
- Add pieces around pipes, chimneys and walls.
- Run regular underlayment over the rest of the deck, lapping onto the top edge of the membrane.
- Install rake drip edge, then shingles, within the membrane's exposure limit.
Background on edge metal is in drip edge explained, and on where membrane belongs in ice and water shield in Georgia.