How do you fix drip edge on a roof?

Common drip edge problems

• Loose or flapping sections from too few nails or nails that missed the deck.
• Bent edges from ladders, falling limbs or gutter work.
• A gap behind the gutter, where water drips between the drip edge and the fascia and rots the board.
• Rust on old galvanized drip edge.
• Missing entirely, common on older Georgia homes and some cheap reroofs.

Fixing it

1. Refasten. Gently lift the shingle edge on a mild day, then nail the roof flange into the deck no more than 12 inches apart, where the shingles will cover the nails. Reseal the shingles.
2. Replace a section. Unseal the first course, pull the nails, slide the damaged piece out and a new one in, lapping adjacent pieces at least 2 inches.
3. Add missing drip edge. It can often be retrofitted under the first course without a reroof, though the gutter may need to come down. The code calls for it to extend at least 2 inches onto the deck and at least 1/4 inch below the sheathing.
4. Close the gutter gap. A gutter apron, a flashing that reaches down into the gutter, stops water from running behind it.

Mind the layering

At the eaves, the drip edge goes on the deck first and the underlayment laps over it, so water on the underlayment drains onto the metal. At the rakes, the underlayment goes first and the drip edge on top, so wind-blown rain cannot get under the underlayment from the side. Reversed layers are a common reason a repaired edge still lets water reach the fascia.

Old shingles may crack when lifted, so on a brittle roof weigh the repair against timing it with a replacement. See drip edge explained and gutter sizing and guards.