How much does drip edge cost?
What changes the material cost
- Metal. Aluminum and galvanized steel are standard and inexpensive. Copper is far more expensive and used mainly on historic or high-end homes.
- Profile. Simple L-style is the cheapest; T or D profiles with a kick-out and longer gutter apron pieces cost a bit more.
- Color. Pre-painted colors to match fascia or gutters cost slightly more than mill finish.
- Gauge. Thicker metal holds a straighter line and resists bending.
How much you need
Drip edge runs along every eave and rake. Add up those lengths, divide by the coverage of each piece after the required overlap of at least 2 inches, and add a few extra pieces for cuts.
Installation cost
During a replacement, drip edge goes on with the underlayment and adds little labor; it should be a listed item on any quote, since the International Residential Code requires it at eaves and rakes of shingle roofs. On an existing roof, a roofer has to break the shingle seal along the edge, slide the drip edge under, fasten it and hand-seal the shingles. That takes more time and carries some risk of damaging older, brittle shingles.
Why it is worth every penny
Without drip edge, water curls under the shingle edge, soaks the fascia and the edge of the decking, and runs behind gutters. Replacing rotten fascia and decking costs many times more than the metal that would have prevented it. In insurance estimates, drip edge is often a separate line, and if it is required by code but missing from an approved estimate, a supplement may be appropriate. Read more in drip edge explained and roof anatomy explained.