Can you install a metal roof yourself?
What makes a metal roof DIY-friendly or not
Exposed-fastener panels, often sold as ag panels or R-panels, are screwed straight through the face into the deck or purlins with gasketed screws. They are forgiving to cut and hang, which is why sheds, barns and porch roofs are common weekend projects. Concealed-fastener standing seam is a different animal: panels are usually formed to length, clips must let the metal move with temperature, and the trim at eaves, rakes, valleys and walls has to be bent and hemmed precisely. Most metal roof leaks start at trim and penetrations, not in the open field of a panel.
The parts people underestimate
- Tear-off and decking. Stripping old shingles, replacing soft sheathing and drying the house in before rain is the hardest, dirtiest stage.
- Underlayment. Metal runs hot in a Georgia summer, so the layer under it should be rated for high temperatures. See synthetic underlayment vs felt.
- Screw technique. An overdriven screw crushes its washer and an underdriven one never seals; both leak within a few seasons.
- Fall protection. Metal is slick with dew or pollen on it. A harness, anchor and roof jacks are not optional on anything steeper than a gentle slope.
Paperwork before the first panel
Some Georgia cities and counties require a permit for a new roof covering even when the owner does the work, so call the building department first (see roofing permits in Georgia). If you live under an HOA, get written approval of the panel profile and color. Paint finish warranties come from the panel manufacturer, but installation errors are on you, so keep receipts and photos of each stage.
A sensible middle ground is to hire out the tear-off, decking and trim on the main house and practice on a shed or carport. For the pros and cons of metal itself in this climate, read metal roofing in Georgia.